Tree Removal in Omaha - Call: (402) 302-1969
Tree RemovalKeep in mind trees take decades to mature. So when the decision is going to be made as to whether to cut down the tree or not keep the following in mind:
Removal should be a last resort Remember that a tree takes a long time to grow to full height, many years. It will only take about 3 minutes to chainsaw through the trunk. Tree add value to your property, shade in the summer time, and beauty to your property. There may be other solutions to the problem you perceive with a potential tree removal. Checking with a qualified arborist may provide a solution that will allow you to save that tree. If you reviewed all possible options to save the tree and have to remove it, don't forget that you'll need to remove the tree stump left behind after the tree has been removed. Check with your local city, county or home owner's association regarding any regulations or permit that may be required prior to having the tree removed |
Free Cost Estimate
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Do you have the room to take down that tree?
Due to space restrictions some trees will have to be take down in steps and not all at once. If the tree doesn't have the room to fall to the ground then it will have to be taken out in manageable sections.
Stump Removal and Felled Tree Haul Away
Larger tree will require more work to get them removed from you property. If the tree does have room to be felled with one cut and the bottom of the trunk, most likely that tree will then have to be cut into manageable pieces in order for it to be hauled off the property. On these larger trees most of the work will come after the tree has been laid to the ground. There will be a log of sawing involved to get the tree parted out to sizes capable of being transported out. After it has been removed the tree stump will have to be removed as well.
Tree Removal Techniques
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How to estimate the tree size.In order to be sure of clearance when a tree is cut down you must know the height and width of the tree. Since you can't stretch a tape measure to the top of the tree there is a good way to estimate its height. This is a case where the axiom "measure twice - cut once" REALLY APPIES.
The five steps of a tree felling plan are: 1. identify height hazards. 2. lean to make sure you have the equipment needed. 3. plan and clear escape route 4. make the notch, 5. make bore are back cut and use the escape plan. The first step of the plan is called Height's Hazards and Lean. The first question that should be answered before cutting a tree is how tall is it? You need this information so you can assess any hazards in the path as it falls. There are many ways to determine the height of a tree. You can probably find an app for you phone that will do it. Or you can use an angle app or transit. This process uses equipment that is routinely found in you workplace, a stick.. This stick trick for measuring tree height is easy and fairly accurate. You need to find a stick as long as the distance between your hand and your shoulder, when your arm is outstretched and hold it in your hand at that length. Now rotate the stick until it is perpendicular with the ground. Put your bottom hand even with where you want the notch cut in the bottom of the tree trunk. Now walk backwards away from the tree until the tip of the stick is even with the top of the tree. It is important to hold your hand and arms still and move your eyes and not your head when you are lining up the tree. Step back until the tip of the stick lines up with the top of the tree. |
Now you should be standing where the tip of the tree will fall. A measure of the distance from your feet to the base of the tree will provide a fairly accurate measure of the tree height from the not to the tip. The high estimate must be adjusted for front and back lean and topography. If the tree leans forward, the height will be overestimated. And if it has backline, this method will underestimate the height.
Similarly, if the tree is on a slope falling uphill, the height estimate will be low, and if it is falling downhill, the height will be overestimated. Next, it's time to look for hazards. Circle the tree viewing it very carefully. There are many potential hazards. A hazard is anything the tree may hit on its way down. Houses, statues, high wires, people and cars are hazards that have to be avoided.
Consider the condition of the ground and the strength and direction of the wind. Another tree which can change the direction of the fall or hang up the tree you want to fail is a potential hazard. Also, look for hazards on the tree. Look for any damage to the trunk from insects or disease that may cause the trunk to collapse during cutting. And remember to look up into the canopy for widow makers, detached branches that are hung up in the tree, or dead branches that can detach and fall on you.
Does the tree lean? There's an easy way to tell. Use your hands like the image to the left and draw a line from center to the ground. How far is that line from the base of the tree? In this case, it's 4 feet lean needs to be determined in this way from two separate locations. First in the line, you intend to fill it and second, 90 degrees perpendicular to that.
Generally, if the tree has three feet or less of sideline, the notch may be adjusted to compensate. If it has more than three feet of sightly, the tree will not fall in its intended path and you must come up with a new plan. If you decide to adjust a line in which the tree will be felled, reassess to lean again in the new line of fall and again 90 degrees perpendicular to it. When complete this should show the plan of fall for the tree.
Now you are ready for the second step. Selecting your equipment first and foremost, make sure you have your personal protective equipment on. A helmet to protect your head, safety glasses for your eyes, noise protection for you ears, gloves and chainsaw pants or chaps. And finally, boots preferably with steel toes. Now determine what equipment is needed to assist a tree in its intended path of fall. You will need a well-maintained and properly running chainsaw that has an engine which can safely operate a far length slightly longer than the diameter of the tree.
The change should be sharp and in good repair. If the tree has back our side, lean a throw line and rope or a mechanical advantage set may be needed to help pull the tree over. Wages are required, equipment on site. Anytime a tree is being felled, you may need multiple wedges and an ax to drive them. Wedgies are a great way to provide mechanical advantage to a tree. A wedge in the back cut of any tree being felled regardless of the direction of lean is a smart way to go.
Move all the equipment you have determined you will need to the base of the trunk.Don't proceed until you have all the equipment you need. When you do have the equipment. The third step is very important, planning your escape route. The escape hatch should be at a 45 degree angle away from the direction in which the tree will fall. Clear away branches and debris, which can entangle you as you move on the route and impassable escape route is just another hazard, one that can easily cause an accident.
As soon as the tree begins to move. Use the escape path. 90 percent of the accidents during tree felling occur within 15 seconds after the tree moves and within 5 feet of the trunk. This is called the 90-15-5 rule. Once that tree begins to move, move away from the trunk. Remember, never turn your back on a falling tree. The fourth step is cutting the notch in the direction you wish to fail the tree. We recommend using an open face, not with an opening between 70 and 90 degrees.
However, if you were more comfortable with a conventional 50 degree notch or humbolt notch, that is also acceptable. Now you are ready for the fifth and final step. Either a board cut or a back cut. This is done to establish a hinge that is an appropriate thickness for the diameter of the tree. If the tree is twenty four inches in diameter or less, the hinge will be 10 percent of the remaining material after the notches removed. Try to make the hinge the same width across the entire trunk of the tree.
If the tree is more than 24 inches in diameter, the hinge will be 5 percent of the remaining material after the notches removed. If all five steps are followed properly, the tree will remain attached to the stump and fall along its intended path. The feller will be safely away on the escape route.
Similarly, if the tree is on a slope falling uphill, the height estimate will be low, and if it is falling downhill, the height will be overestimated. Next, it's time to look for hazards. Circle the tree viewing it very carefully. There are many potential hazards. A hazard is anything the tree may hit on its way down. Houses, statues, high wires, people and cars are hazards that have to be avoided.
Consider the condition of the ground and the strength and direction of the wind. Another tree which can change the direction of the fall or hang up the tree you want to fail is a potential hazard. Also, look for hazards on the tree. Look for any damage to the trunk from insects or disease that may cause the trunk to collapse during cutting. And remember to look up into the canopy for widow makers, detached branches that are hung up in the tree, or dead branches that can detach and fall on you.
Does the tree lean? There's an easy way to tell. Use your hands like the image to the left and draw a line from center to the ground. How far is that line from the base of the tree? In this case, it's 4 feet lean needs to be determined in this way from two separate locations. First in the line, you intend to fill it and second, 90 degrees perpendicular to that.
Generally, if the tree has three feet or less of sideline, the notch may be adjusted to compensate. If it has more than three feet of sightly, the tree will not fall in its intended path and you must come up with a new plan. If you decide to adjust a line in which the tree will be felled, reassess to lean again in the new line of fall and again 90 degrees perpendicular to it. When complete this should show the plan of fall for the tree.
Now you are ready for the second step. Selecting your equipment first and foremost, make sure you have your personal protective equipment on. A helmet to protect your head, safety glasses for your eyes, noise protection for you ears, gloves and chainsaw pants or chaps. And finally, boots preferably with steel toes. Now determine what equipment is needed to assist a tree in its intended path of fall. You will need a well-maintained and properly running chainsaw that has an engine which can safely operate a far length slightly longer than the diameter of the tree.
The change should be sharp and in good repair. If the tree has back our side, lean a throw line and rope or a mechanical advantage set may be needed to help pull the tree over. Wages are required, equipment on site. Anytime a tree is being felled, you may need multiple wedges and an ax to drive them. Wedgies are a great way to provide mechanical advantage to a tree. A wedge in the back cut of any tree being felled regardless of the direction of lean is a smart way to go.
Move all the equipment you have determined you will need to the base of the trunk.Don't proceed until you have all the equipment you need. When you do have the equipment. The third step is very important, planning your escape route. The escape hatch should be at a 45 degree angle away from the direction in which the tree will fall. Clear away branches and debris, which can entangle you as you move on the route and impassable escape route is just another hazard, one that can easily cause an accident.
As soon as the tree begins to move. Use the escape path. 90 percent of the accidents during tree felling occur within 15 seconds after the tree moves and within 5 feet of the trunk. This is called the 90-15-5 rule. Once that tree begins to move, move away from the trunk. Remember, never turn your back on a falling tree. The fourth step is cutting the notch in the direction you wish to fail the tree. We recommend using an open face, not with an opening between 70 and 90 degrees.
However, if you were more comfortable with a conventional 50 degree notch or humbolt notch, that is also acceptable. Now you are ready for the fifth and final step. Either a board cut or a back cut. This is done to establish a hinge that is an appropriate thickness for the diameter of the tree. If the tree is twenty four inches in diameter or less, the hinge will be 10 percent of the remaining material after the notches removed. Try to make the hinge the same width across the entire trunk of the tree.
If the tree is more than 24 inches in diameter, the hinge will be 5 percent of the remaining material after the notches removed. If all five steps are followed properly, the tree will remain attached to the stump and fall along its intended path. The feller will be safely away on the escape route.